tt-133 BY DON MEEHAN

PLANTING BAREROOT TREES AND SHRUBS

The beginning of the new year is often the time when we begin making decisions about changes in our landscape. Adding shrubs or trees to the landscape is most effectively done in the late winter or early spring when the desired plant is still in its dormancy. Most of our deciduous trees and shrubs come from commercial nurseries bareroot. They are typically wrapped in sawdust designed to maintain the moisture in the roots during transport. There are some things you will want to look for when buying bareroot plants. These include root symmetry, branch symmetry, root size, root direction of growth and state of health of the overall plant. Let's address the symmetry issues first. Both roots and above ground branching need to be symmetrical if you want the plant to grow uniformly. Roots should be coming out in all four quadrants of the crown. The main roots should be growing downward so that a good anchoring of the plant will take place as it becomes established. Branches which are evenly spaced will be much easier to train. This is especially important with most fruit trees to avoid excessive corrective pruning. Root vigor and direction of growth can lead to failure of the plant several years down the road if not given adequate attention during selection of the bareroot stock. Big roots need to aim downwards for anchoring, smaller fibrous roots should be present in good quantity and are most susceptible to drying out during shipment or storage. Check them for vigor and keep them moist if the plant is not to be planted for awhile. Look the roots over for breaks, kinks, and disease. Breaks or kinks near the terminal ends are less of a problem than those near the crown. Bumps or fissures on the roots or the crown may indicate disease. Plant bareroot plant materials as soon as possible. If this is not practical place their roots in moist sawdust, sand or soil to prevent root desiccation. Protect them from freezing, as well, since the small fibrous roots are very susceptible to freeze damage. Almost always you will find that the smaller the original plant stock the greater the chances are that it will survive the three to four years of establishment. When it comes to plant survival, bigger is not better. Some tips on planting may help you to avoid future problems. Plants which have a large root system comprised of many small fibrous roots can often establish better if some of the roots are cut in a fashion as to spread them out more. This is especially true of containerized plants and seldom bareroot plants. This may seem cruel and unusual punishment for what seems like a perfectly good plant, but our researchers at WSU are finding this technique provides quicker establishment of most plantings. Never allow the roots of the plant to twist around in the planting hole. This action will cause the roots to grow in circles around the plant leading to premature death of the plant several years down the road. I have seen many plants dying from water stress due to this condition. The roots become confined to a small area, too small to hold adequate moisture for the plant when warm weather begins. Always dig the hole twice the size of the diameter spread of the roots. Dig it deep enough to allow for some loose soil to be placed underneath the plant, but, and this is very important, be sure the plant will settle in at the same height it started at. If the crown or graft union are covered with soil this may lead to premature death, poor vigor, and in fruiting plants, failure to fruit. For quite a number of years we have not recommended adding organic material to the soil that is used as back fill. However, I recognize there are some soil conditions which prompt this kind of amending. If this is a must for your situation we recommend no more than 40% of the backfill be organic. This will increase nutrient and water holding capacities, but should allow excessive moisture to pass through beyond the native soil barrier. Be sure to mix any added organic matter in well. Pack soil in around the roots carefully. Avoid the ole elephant stomping routine. Water the new planting and stake it loosely. Do not add fertilizer since this may lead to fertilizer burn as the new root hairs develop from the fibrous roots. The last step which may be like buying some insurance is to mulch over the new root zone. This will protect the roots from freeze damage, should weather conditions deteriorate, and when spring and summer arrive it will help hold moisture in. For more information about planting new bareroot plants, or problems with your landscape plants contact our office and we'll put you in touch with one of the many WSU Master Gardeners in the county.




Return to Main WSU Page

Return to Articles Index

Providing Educational Support to the Island County Community