By Island County Extension Agent, Donald B. Meehan
PRUNING PRINCIPLES FOR FRUIT TREES
Pruning fruit trees is an important part of a yearly maintenance program. Besides giving you an opportunity to shape your tree or trees, pruning does a number of other things. It stimulates shoot growth, reduces tree size, makes trees easier to spray and harvest, increases fruit production and quality, and reduces propping of fruit-laden, weak limbs.
It is never too late to prune, but the best time to start is at planting time. If you have old trees in your yard they can benefit as well. The best time of the year to prune is during the dormant season. Generally we like to see pruning take place after fall and prior to full bloom in the spring. It is a good rule of thumb to not prune until the trees have hardened off.
Here are some rules of thumb about pruning: 1. Prune young trees lightly. 2. Prune mature trees more heavily, especially if they have shown little growth. 3. Prune the top portion of the tree more heavily than the lower portion. 4. Train young trees in the first few years after planting to avoid corrective pruning later.
One of the problems that I frequently see in pruning is the fear of removing too much of a limb and all too commonly people make heading cuts instead of thinning cuts. A heading cut is one where a branch is cut back partially instead of cutting at a "Y" in the branch. Heading cuts cause a limb to excessively branch to have their place. Used excessively, they produce a bushy, dense tree that won't allow light to enter the center. Remember, fruit trees must have light in order to produce quality fruit.
When pruning, gear yourself to think 90% thinning cuts and only 10% heading-back cuts.
As you go about pruning, start by pruning out any diseased or damage limbs. Consider which limbs attach to the tree trunk at sharp angles. Limbs such as these will become a hazard as they grow. In a few years the limb will be prone to breaking off at that poor attachment. Prune those limbs out when they are young.
Large limbs that need to be removed, especially in older trees should be under-cut first so that when cutting it from the top side it won't tear away at the trunk. Then, make a final, flush cut at the trunk, leaving only a 1/4 - 1/2" of the limb exposed.
All pruning cuts should be made so they are almost flush with the surface of the main branch or trunk. This will promote rapid healing and will not leave a stub which will be a potential source for heart rot fungal disease entry.
If you have several trees to prune, be sure to consider that your pruning equipment can pass diseases from one to another. This can be prevented by preparing a 1% solution of bleach and water. Dip your shears and saw in this solution, even when working on the same tree.
There are many things I have not mentioned that a conscientious pruner needs to know. Things such as determining if you want your trees to be open center or central-leader trained, or how to control water sprouts (suckers), how to handle dwarf trees, the difference in pruning between apple, pear, cherry, peach, and plum trees, and how to prune old fruit trees properly.
Our office has a number of publications that deal with pruning. Call us if you want copies and we will be glad to mail them to you.
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